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OxfordPress.com

Recipes for sweet corn

In The Big Book of Backyard Cooking by Betty Rosbottom, corn pudding becomes Pepper Jack Corn Pudding.

In Local Flavors, Cooking and Eating From America's Farmer' Markets, by Deborah Madison, sharp Cheddar cheese adds flavor to crispy Corn Fritters.

The recipe for corn fritters is one of the best recipes I've tested this year. Unlike most corn fritters, which are just a few corn kernels suspended in batter, this one is all about corn — and cheese, and herbs — suspended in the barest amount of flour to hold them together.

The recipe is from Local Flavors, and author Deborah Madison suggests using aged Cheddar cheese but adds that all kinds of cheese will work, from Jack cheese and Gouda and Swiss to feta and goat cheese. I used smoked Gouda to great results.

She also topped them with arugula, which I found unnecessary.

A WHOLE DIFFERENT KIND OF CORN FRITTER

Makes 6 to 8 servings

6 ears sweet corn, enough to yield 3 cups kernels

2 eggs, beaten

4 green onions, including an inch of the greens, finely sliced

1/2 cup chopped parsley

2 tablespoons shredded

basil

1 cup grated cheese

1/2 teaspoon salt

Freshly ground pepper

1/3 cup flour

Oil or unsalted butter for frying

Place the ears of shucked corn stem-side down in a mixing bowl. Use a sharp paring knife to slice off the kernels, but don't slice too deeply. Use the back of the knife to press out the corn milk. Mix the kernels and the corn milk with the eggs, green onions, herbs and cheese and season with salt and pepper. Stir in the flour.

Heat enough oil or butter to cover the bottom of a large skillet. Using a half-cup measure fill it generously with a scoop of the batter and drop into the skillet, flattening slightly with a spatula. Fry over medium heat until golden, about two minutes. Turn and brown the second side.

Serve while hot.

Betty Rosbottom's corn pudding gets a contemporary kick with the addition of pepper jack cheese and cayenne pepper.

PEPPER JACK CORN PUDDING

Makes 6 servings

Butter for greasing pan

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

1 cup chopped leeks or

onion

4 cups fresh corn kernels, from 7 to 8 ears

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg

Generous 1/8 teaspoon

cayenne pepper

4 large eggs

2 cups half-and-half

8 ounces pepper jack cheese

Arrange an oven rack at center position and preheat oven to 350 degrees. Butter a shallow 2-quart ovenproof baking dish.

Heat oil in a heavy skillet over medium heat until hot. Add the leeks and cook, stirring, until softened. Add corn and cook, stirring, 5 minutes more. Remove from heat and stir in salt, nutmeg and cayenne.

In a large bowl whisk eggs and half-and-half until blended. Stir in corn mixture and cheese and mix. Transfer to the baking dish.

Bake until a knife inserted into the middle comes out clean and the top is slightly brown, about 35 to 45 minutes. Remove and cool 5 minutes. Serve warm.