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Beef, barley and mushroom soup

Old-fashioned beef barley soup is a traditional cool weather soup, but this updated version puts the emphasis on mushrooms, both flavorful shiitake and an abundance of button mushrooms. A little soy sauce adds to the meaty flavor.

The soup can be made up to three days in advance and should at least be refrigerated overnight to remove any fat.

You can use chopped onion instead of leeks.

Makes 8 servings

1 ounce dried shiitake mushrooms, soaked in 2 cups boiling water for 30 minutes

2 tablespoons olive oil

3 leeks, white and light green parts only, thoroughly cleaned and coarsely chopped (2 1/2 cups), divided use

3 beef shanks*

salt and freshly ground black pepper

1/2 cup pearled barley (not quick cooking)

3 carrots, peeled and coarsely chopped, divided use

1 pound white button mushrooms, wiped clean and cut into chunks

6 cups fat-free chicken broth

1 tablespoon soy sauce

4 tablespoons finely chopped parsley, plus additional for garnish

1/4 cup chopped green onions

Strain the soaked dried mushrooms over a bowl, squeezing them dry. Reserve 1 cup of the soaking liquid.

Trim stems from the shiitake mushrooms and discard; cut the soaked mushrooms into a small dice. Put in a bowl with the reserved mushroom liquid.

In a large soup pot heat the olive oil over medium meat. Add 2 cups of the leeks and cook until softened, stirring, about 5 minutes. Season the beef shanks with salt and pepper; push the leeks aside and add the beef to the pot. Brown on each side, about 2 minutes. Remove the beef to a plate.

Add the barley, two-thirds of the carrots and the fresh mushrooms to the pan and cook until coated with oil, about 1 minute. Return the beef to the pot and add the broth; reduce heat to low, cover and simmer for 1 1/2 hours.

Remove the beef. When it is cool enough to handle, shred the meat and return to the soup. Add the 1/2 cup leeks and remaining carrots to the soup, along with the reserved dried mushroom mixture and soy sauce. Bring to a boil and simmer for 5 minutes. Stir in the parsley. Taste and season with salt and pepper if needed.

Ladle into soup bowls and sprinkle with additional parsley.

*Or use turkey thighs, on the bone.

— Recipe adapted from Seriously Simple by Diana Rossen Worthington.