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Chile-rubbed lamb shanks with pinto beans

When I started writing about food 29 years ago, there were no chipotle chiles in the store. They weren't even called for in recipes. First available only in ethnic stores, the smoky hot chiles became a chef's favorite and are now widely available.

Makes 4 servings

1 canned chipotle chile in adobo sauce, plus 1 tablespoon adobo sauce

1 tablespoon orange juice

2 teaspoons brown sugar

1 teaspoon ground cumin

4 small lamb shanks, 12 to 14 ounces each

1 1/2 tablespoons vegetable oil

1 medium onion, diced

2 large garlic cloves, minced

1 1/4 cups chicken stock

1 14-ounce can diced tomatoes, with juice

1 15-ounce can pinto beans, rinsed and drained

1/4 teaspoon salt

cilantro (optional)

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

In a small bowl combine 1 teaspoon of the adobo sauce, orange juice, brown sugar and cumin. Brush it all over the shanks. In a large ovenproof pan, heat the oil. Brown the shanks over medium heat (if the heat is too high the sugar can burn). Add the onion to the pan and cook, stirring occasionally until the onion begins to brown. Stir in garlic and cook for 1 minute.

Add the stock, tomatoes and juice and the remaining 2 teaspoons adobo sauce. Bring back to a boil. Cover and bake for one hour. Turn the meat and recover. Bake another hour. Stir in the drained beans and cook, with cover askew for another half hour. (If too much liquid remains, remove the shanks and keep them warm while boiling the mixture to reduce it.)

Stir in the salt. Mince the chipotle chile and add it to the mixture.

Spoon beans on individual plates and put a shank on top of each. Sprinkle with snipped cilantro if desired.

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